Most of these sites are in the North of the country. Amman, the capital, has grown up around the old, ruined citadel. From the top there are views over the modern city, while right in the centre sits an almost intact amphitheatre. Steps at the entrance show the wear of centuries. It’s easy to imagine a senator or similar addressing the crowds. Chris looks very small sitting in the audience!
Almost nothing remains of Um Qais in the far north, though it’s fun to follow the ancient chariot ruts in the Decumanus Maximus, the paved main street. Apparently one of Jesus’ miracles took place here and there are views to the Sea of Galilee.
Jerash is undoubtedly the best preserved of the Roman sites. Hadrian’s Arch dominates the entrance, while beyond are the remains of streets, shops, temples and fountains, plus not one, but two amphitheatres. The city even had underground drainage. Two massive earthquakes were responsible for toppling the columns and wrecking the buildings. Then later occupants ‘recycled’ the stones for their own building projects. Even so, enough is left to give this place the wow factor.